How to Do Paris Like an Angeleno
Paris’ trademark characteristics — the greige lighting, the en plein air cafes, the Haussmann buildings and architectural landmarks, the fragrance of freshly baked bread from bakeries on every corner, we could go on. Nevertheless, like any other city, Paris also has so many facets beyond its stereotypes (magical as they are!) that are worth exploring. There’s an endless amount of things to do and how you define your own trip there just depends on the kind of experience you’re seeking.
Though I’m not a native Angeleno, living in this city for the past 15+ years has shaped what draws me to a particular destination, Paris included. On a recent trip there, I — like most American tourists — wanted to hit the cultural touchstones that make this a place like no other, but I also crave certain California comforts, which informed what and where I wanted to eat, drink, shop, and see.
In terms of food, my California influence had me craving fresh, seasonal produce, natural wine, and cozy, laid-back atmospheres. All my LA faves follow this model, but Paris — undoubtedly a culinary epicenter — did not disappoint! For starters, I wanted to stock my Ménilmontant Airbnb with Parisian essentials so I could have a few simple meals and snacks at “home.” Thankfully, Altervojo, an organic market, was just a short walk away. This tiny but mighty grocer had everything I needed and more. I picked up some frisée, endive, and French radish for a bitter salad as well as a fresh baguette and Comté cheese.
They also had an assortment of prepared foods (I grabbed a leek tart) as well as preserves, wine, spices, and a small apothecary section. It’s easy to find mini markets in every Parisian neighborhood, but this one stole my little Angeleno heart!
In Los Angeles, coffee culture is no joke. And thankfully, Parisians are similarly serious about the subject. While some tourists dream of sitting with a steaming cup on the patio of historic Café de Flore, my coffee snobbery led me to a more modern destination. Dreamin Man in the fashionable Le Marais, had been highly recommended. Owned by Yuichiro Sugiyama (a former barista of Boot Cafe, another cool caffeination destination) this teeny spot has a cozy, wabi sabi aesthetic thanks to its Japanese influence. There’s a small but lovely selection of pastries, all of which go perfectly with an expertly poured Cortado (my recommendation). Dreamin Man is lively, friendly, and ideal for stopping by as you begin your shopping adventures in this stylish neighborhood.
Brunch is synonymous with LA because, let’s face it, most of us don’t work 9 to 5 and are able have more leisurely afternoons. That said, I knew I had to find a unique spot to show me the Parisian spin on brunch. Somehow, in my constant quest for the best pastries in town, I came upon Benoit Castel, a patisserie with two locations in Paris — one of which offers an all-you-can-eat buffet for about 40 Euro.
But this buffet is unlike others you’ve ever had. Upon arriving to the Ménilmontant location, I was immediately offered a choice of freshly pressed juice (I opted for carrot). The family-style offerings included a wide variety of sweet and savory options (think riz au lait with ripe mangoes and passionfruit, frittata with Romanesco grartin, and tomato and olive tartes). Of course there were plenty of croissants (yes, including pain au chocolat) and the freshly brewed coffee was flowing.
Of course many Angelenos have a flair for the dramatic, and if this describes you, you won’t want to miss a stroll around Père Lachaise Cemetery in Ménilmontant. Here you’ll find the resting places of literary geniuses (Oscar Wilde, Balzac, Gertrude Stein, Richard Wright), artists (Géricault, Jacques-Louis David, Delacroix, Max Ernst, Ingres, Modigliani, Seurat, Pissarro), musicians (Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf), and more. Even if you’re not the emo type, this sprawling cemetery makes a for a lovely little morning or afternoon walk with a cup of coffee and perhaps a pastry from nearby Café Moco or The Dancing Goat.
Père Lachaise Cemetery
I wouldn’t say that LA visitors are more interested in viewing art in Paris than anyone else — it’s one of the most notable aspects of the city. But given the popularity of LACMA and The Broad as local art destinations, I’d suggest Angelenos not miss a visit to the Centre Pompidou in particular. This modern/contemporary institution focuses on work from the 20th century and beyond and standout artists here include Marc Chagall, Joan Miro, Piet Mondrian, Yves Klein, Louise Bourgeois, Sonia Delaunay, and Henri Matisse.
There’s a lot to see here (including the colorful, Postmodern building itself), so it’s easy to miss one of the most brilliant of gems — Atelier Brancusi. This satellite structure includes a reconstruction of the French-Romanian sculptor’s Paris studio, which can be viewed through a glass enclosure. It includes much of his bequeathed collection of paintings, drawings, photographs, and of course minimalist sculptures thoughtfully arranged by Renzo Piano to intimate effect.
Los Angeles is well known for its contributions to the street art world (see: Shepard Fairey, RETNA, El Mac, Dabs Myla), but Paris gives the city some strong competition. From JR’s giant photographic murals to C215’s stenciled portraits, there’s so much to take in here simply walking around, but if you want to seek out some notable street art spots, try Canal St. Denis, Belleville, and Montmartre. You can even download a special app that will take you to all the city’s Invader mosaics.
Let’s be honest: One of the best parts of traveling to a new place is picking up souvenirs. There is no shortage of places to shop for iconically French things when you’re in, well, France, but I can certainly make a few suggestions.
The Champs-Élysées is a touristy spot when it comes to shopping, so you’re likely to see a lot of shops you’d find in every major city (especially Los Angeles). That said, the Bouquinistes on the River Siene are such unexpected gems. These little vintage book/magazine stalls along the river offers tons of uniquely French treasures. Beyond books, there are art prints, illustrations, and post cards among other nostalgic finds.
Bouquinistes on the River Siene
In terms of more contemporary offerings, my favorite place to shop was Le Marais. In addition to the best Lebanese eateries in the city, this neighborhood features more niche boutiques, so it’s the perfect destination if you want something you won’t find in your hometown. A few of my favorite stops here were Oh My Cream, a beauty retailer with its own eponymous line (and spa services at the beautifully minimalist Le Marais location), Officine Universelle Buly 1803 — an apothecary-style shop with multiple locations, but this one has a built-in coffee bar (plus for about $30 you can customize your own monogrammed lip balm and it makes the ideal souvenir), and Merci, a sprawling storefront that specializes in emerging labels and includes a cafe and restaurant as well as its own bookstore.
Angelenos who don’t miss a visit to the monthly Rose Bowl Flea market will want to make sure they take a trip to les puces. There are a few options, but Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen is known to be the largest in the city. It’s a lengthy Metro ride away (plus you’ll have to navigate through a Santee Alley-esque part of town where you’ll dodge people trying to sell you cigarettes and ear pods), but the potential treasures you’ll find here make it all worthwhile.
Many of the fashion outposts here are geared towards designers and collectors (read: very old, very expensive!), but if you make the rounds you can still find places to shop clothing, bags, jewelry, hats, and more for more accessible prices. Plus you can always attempt to negotiate! I fell in love with Popular Favorites, owned and curated by Finnish transplant Kaisa who’s aesthetic is also undeniably Californian. A few things I saw during my stop by Popular Favorites included 60s-era military pants, straw bags, novelty tees, colorful scarves, and tons of kitchy art and tchotchkes.
For better or worse, Los Angeles is a city synonymous with beauty — from Botox to body treatments and pretty much everything in between. The French similarly value beauty, but offer a different (and honestly quite refreshing) approach. French women tend to show age more gracefully, valuing skincare over cosmetics. In fact, skincare in Paris is primarily sold in pharmacies. This alone encourages you to make decisions based on recommendations from an on-hand medical professional.
In the pharmacies, which can be found practically on every corner, you’ll find a ton of brands you’ll recognize, like La Roche Posay, Avene, Klorane, and Nuxe, but because of the differing formula restrictions, you’ll be able to pick of products of theirs you won’t have access to in the States. City Pharma is probably the largest and most popular pharmacy in the city, and despite the inevitable line, it’s worth making a stop here to stock up on skincare, haircare, sunscreen (European formulas are beloved by skincare experts!), and more.
For beauty lovers, it would simply be a waste of a trip to Paris if you don’t book a treatment at Biologique Recherche. Though LA now has its own ambassade on Melrose Place, the Paris location is like the mecca for the cult-favorite brand.
Located on the Champs-Élysées, the luxurious spa has a wealth of face and body treatments (and you can pick up any of its products here as well). I opted for one of its signature facials, which begin with Biologique’s trademark skin analysis using a machine that appears to be as old as its famed P50 exfoliation potion. It measures things like lipid levels, hydration, serum production, discoloration, and firmness, and your facial is tailored to your results.
Unlike most American facials, there’s no steaming (in fact no use of anything hotter than lukewarm water) and no extractions. Here they focus on creating “cozy” skin that’s pampered and protected. And if you want their version of an anti-aging treatment, be sure to add on remodeling which utilizes a combination of currents to tone and contour. I left feeling more glowy than I’ve ever been in my life, and the effect lasted weeks.
We already touched on a few places you can get your hands on books in Paris, but for true literary enthusiasts, Shakespeare & Company is a must. Initially built as a monastery in the early 17th century, Shakespeare & Co. officially became a bookshop in the 1950’s and became a sort of stomping grounds for such well-known writers as Allen Ginsberg, Anaïs Nin, Richard Wright, Henry Miller, and James Baldwin among others.
Because this is the largest English bookstore in town, and because the place is so legendary, you’ll likely have to wait in line to get in, but once you’re in, the wait is so rewarding. This cozy, multi-level building houses a variety of genres, and although it specializes in English language books, you can find a few French versions of contemporary and classic texts (I bought an illustrated book of Apollinaire poetry), which means alternative cover art.
Sadly, the resident cat, Aggie, recently passed away, but you can still shop souvenirs with her likeness. Every book you buy gets marked with Shakespeare & Co.’s official stamp they make great Parisian gifts or keepsakes.
Like LA, Paris is well known for its food scene and that extends beyond the boulangeries, patisseries, cafes, and creperies. If you’re seeking modern fare by way of a cozy, semi formal atmosphere there are so many great options. Au Passage is fantastic for those who want seasonal small plates and natural wine in a warm, intimate setting.
For something a bit fancier, Clown Bar is a standout in the city. The bistro dates back to 1902 (it’s actually been declared a historic monument), two doors from the Cirque d'hiver and was frequently visited by the performers and attendees. Now it’s renowned for its elegant, contemporary dishes highlighting seasonal ingredients. The menu is small but every dish is technically impressive (thought deceptively simple at first glance) and the list of low intervention wine is expansive. Between the historical setting (look out for the preserved clown tiles around the bar!) and the stunning food (a modern take on Paris-Brest was particularly notable), this is one you shouldn’t miss if you don’t mind a little splurge.
Photo of @abricot by @_____pepa
For an expertly crafted nightcap in a supremely stylish setting, make a stop at Abricot, a new cocktail bar owned by Jennifer Crain and Allison Kave (formerly of NYC’s Butter & Scotch.) Located near Folie-Méricourt, this woman-run lounge offers creative drinks (like the Blanche Devereaux, a Parisian take on the Negroni) as well as plant-based bites (like popcorn with Tajin and jackfruit tacos). A stop here is the perfect au revoir to your Paris trip.
